Marcus Samuelsson’s First New York Restaurant in Seven Years Is Open
Aperitivos in Greenpoint, Brooklyn, Tocqueville reopens, and more restaurant news.
Cooking Feast on recipes, food writing and culinary inspiration from Sam Sifton and NYT Cooking. Get it sent to your inbox.By Florence Fabricant
Hav & Mar
Rose Noël, the former executive chef of Maialino Mare in Washington, D.C., is opening a seafood restaurant with Marcus Samuelsson, his first spot in the city in about seven years. Hav means ocean in Swedish, and Mar translates as honey in Amharic. (Both languages played a role in Mr. Samuelsson’s life.) Input from the chef de cuisine, Fariyal Abdullahi, and the head baker, Farheen Jafarey, also shaped the menu, which features Black mermaid rice with mushrooms, crab, lobster and peas; dawadawa bass with clams and herbs; and seaside waffle with rock shrimp and uni butter. In addition to wines and cocktails, the drinks include Ethiopian beer and several nonalcoholic choices. The 125-seat restaurant, done in shades of green, will be a showcase for Black art. Thelma Golden, the director of the Studio Museum in Harlem, and Derrick Adams, an artist and a creative partner who contributed impressive wall-mounted sculptures, will curate the selection, which will also feature a series depicting Black mermaids commissioned by Mr. Samuelsson. Midcentury style is evident in the Noguchi-style chandelier and bentwood lamps.
245 11th Avenue (26th Street), 212-328-8041, havandmar.com.
Spanish and Italian aperitivo bars inspired this addition to Greenpoint, Brooklyn, where fortified wines, poured straight or mixed, are the specialty. Two versions of the Americano cocktail — one classic with sweet vermouth and Campari, the other bianco with dry vermouth — are dispensed on tap. The wine list skews natural. Small plates devised by Vincent Iborra, the consulting chef, include oysters, black sausage croquettes with aioli, Rancho Gordo beans with cockles, and the inevitable cheeseburger. The room, which features exposed brick, mirrors and stained glass and is anchored by a U-shaped gray quartz bar, has seating at leather and mahogany banquettes.
180 Franklin Street (Java Street), Greenpoint, Brooklyn, 347-457-5436, baramericanonyc.com.
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